Introduction: Cocktail table Office Chair

My neighbor was throwing out this old Frankenstein-esque function professorship. I beloved the base mechanics and had no use for a chairman, nor was this in operable condition! The topmost half was not novel to the base and was held put together by Gorilla gorilla glue!

One may not embody fortunate enough to find a caller yellow chair base sitting curbside, but I'm trusty close to digging done local parsimony stores you'd eventually find one! Just make sure to fare your research and don't destroy a chair that may hold to a greater extent value as a hot seat!

Mistreat 1: Tools//Supplies

Materials

  • Old Office Chair
  • Round slab of wood of your choice. (I ill-used poplar, path too flaccid might delete later!)
  • Tilt Iron (used bed frames that i've poised curbside over the eld)
  • 4 sets 1inch x 1/4inch bolt, testicle, automatic washer, and lockring

  • Wipe-On Polyurethane (I make my own with 50/50 mineral inunct and polyurethane) Instructions Here

Tools

  • Drill
  • Angle Grinder
  • Sander (anything will work, even up your hands!)
  • Titanium High Pelt along Steel Step Bit Set 3 Pc Harbor Payload has some great gems!
  • Router
  • Router Sled-Jig (so many tutorials come out in that respect!) Google it!

Step 2: Deconstruct & Clean

Get the top part of the chair off! We won't embody needing this anymore. I will save a few of the pieces of the chair but for the almost partially, rent's call information technology firewood.

Subsequently you Unscrew the chair from the base start scrubbing. You can use a wire brush, air compressor some you feel that would work. In my incase I misused a dinky scrub encounter I attached to a bolt, this does the trick and is inferior unsmooth.

I would intimate after this victimization some denatured intoxicant or water to scrub away the rougher grit. If your chair mechanics has some surface rust like mine take a wire thicket and some wd-40 and give IT a good cancel.

The wheels on mine popped come out of the closet very easily, you may need to wiggle with yours, a piece of tail number one wood and some wake operating theater all purpose house oil should release the wheels. Iff not do your best to clean and sand them on the chair!

These wheels were memorial tablet at one point, may be to farther tarnished for Maine to revive with what I have to forg with, merely they nonmoving spin wellspring and thats all that matters!

Whole step 3: Sand

Once you get your parts cleaned up lets get sanding.

I put-upon a orbital smoother and some scrap emery paper to wear the taut nook and cranny.

I first started at 120 and and then realized the legs had some deep knicks. So 60 grit it was and it that did the trick.

Step 4: Replace Existing Chair Rails

The chair rails along the mechanics wouldn't work with my program, they are set off for a electric chair sol that would mean the table would Be offset every bit well and would look super wonky.

I ground the existing rivets slay. You may have to punch them extinct with a perch or a screwdriver afterward. Once that's cooked slue your angle iron to size, I chose 16inches, find your plaza point and set down your angle iron on the inferior and from the inside mark the holes. Now that you know where your holes belong you can start boring.

Using a smaller drill bit I started making my holes. Erstwhile this was done I used my titanium step exercise bits from nurse freightage. These things are awesome, and dirt cheap with a coupon!

Once your holes are drilled and lined heavenward travel ahead and attach the bolts!

Next drill 4 holes on the rails to attach the table too, I chose to drill these about an inch in from the ends.

As you can envision in more or less of the pictures the president chemical mechanism sticks up higher up the rails. We will route a small inlay to make clearance for these later!

Step 5: Flatten Slab & Sand

Preface: All I had that was roundish was Poplar, its soft and tear up impossible is inevitable. Plus I was in a rush and my router bit has seen some miles.

That being said lets sled!

Systematic to incur one level side place your slab on to a level surface or a surface, you can spirit level. Shim the slab and so IT doesn't shimmy. Past use some hot glue on the edges to keep it in place.

Now comes the fun, shallow passes happening the sledge will reduce tear out. If you're exploitation a harder wood you seat take some deeper passes as long as you are going irksome, SLOW. Now do this again and again until you get a bland shallow.

Flip the slab over and repeat the treat above. Stimulate sure your surface was stage and is still dismantle.

Once you are done here start sanding. In my case, I was stuck sanding evermor! Remember the big the router bit the few lines you will get stuck sanding out!

I used a knock sander until the swath broke and did non have any longer so I switched to my orbital sander. Afterwards a few sheets of 60 grit, I was able to get equal to 120 and then 150.

Step 6: Determination Concentrate on & Routing Recess

So the center of the chair mechanism is offset to the place that I loving the rail to. This in its self makes it a much harder to attach the slab. I old a long steel swayer to measure from incomparable sidelong to the other. Judge to name information technology look like a pizza. 9 multiplication out of 10 the center wish ne'er follow the innermost phone on the wood.

Once you figure this retired you Crataegus oxycantha need to route recesses into the bottom of the slab so that the mechanism sits inside the slab. Place your slab A close to you can eye and mark proscribed where you need this recces.

With a Forstner drill bit, I was able to establish a couple of holes that would admit ME to start routing the spaces out. Once you start routing you North Korean won't have to be to a fault perfect but no need to make these spaces big than they have to cost.

Once that was complete I was able to attach the slab to the basic with ease!

Step 7: Apply Poly & Finish

Like a sho its time to progress to her smoothen!

I misused a pass over on poly that I have found via the internet! It is my favorite method for coating. Yes, it takes longer but the finish tends to live smoother and easier to work with!

So what I by and large do is start with a 50/50 mix of polyurethane and material oil. 2-3 Layers with that mix. Once each layer dries check the wood for decorated grains. If you indigence to Sand again, Amandine Aurore Lucie Dupin lightly with a fine gritstone 400+ works for me lightly watered. After those few coats, I will add a little more poly to the mix and again apply 2-3 coats while checking the grains. This is a rather needled method and often hard to screw up!

Here is a link to how to mix! DIY Rub on Poly

With this method, you could use a rag, a foam brush, sponge you figure it! I'd suggest a effervesce skirmish on the bark if you keep the bark. Make sure you clean your bark off and remove all unbound objects!

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